First, the cocktails. Often brilliant, they involve deft mixes such as Citadelle raspberry vodka with white cranberry and grape juice (Love Letter, £8) and fig liqueur and lemon oil with prosecco (Loungelover, £9). Second, the pricing policy.
An initial ‘discretionary’ 12.5% service charge is later followed by a Mexican stand-off over the card-swipe as you’re invited to negotiate its tricky buttons and either add even more gratuity or stick at 12.5%, all under the anticipative glare of your black-uniformed waiter. To be fair, you will have been shown to your table and served at it; bar space is at a premium.
Food comprises sushi and hot Japanese snacks, while the decor remains a jarring mish-mash of baroque, kitsch and exotic; at any rate, it’s perhaps not the ‘seamless marriage of old and new’ suggested by the management.