From the same group as Purl and VOC, this cellar bar is decked out in what seems to be a speakeasy/Victorian mash-up (dark wood and lots of eccentric decorative touches). It makes much of its experimental techniques; if your curiosity is tickled by the sound of ‘enzymes, acids, proteins and hydrocolloids’, you’re all set. The list is mercifully short, and classics are well handled. When we asked for a drink made with the delicious Chase Marmalade vodka, we got their take on it: tall lemonade on the rocks, vodka served separately for either sipping or mixing in. There’s an extensive selection of spirits, including their own barrel-aged ones. Staff are skilled, friendly and eager to please. While there was plenty of space in the front room (there’s another at the back), staff reported that both are usually packed. Not hard to see why.