Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
There’s no flashy name, no flashy decor. Yet this small Soho newcomer punches well above its weight, delivering exceptional cooking in relaxed, buzzy surroundings.
At face value, the menu – Modern Brit via the Med – seems fairly straightforward, but the results are impressive. Highlights from our visit included a bowl of steamed clams and mussels in a fragrant parsley and leek broth, flecked with chilli and slivers of garlic: perfect for soaking up with chewy onion bread. Slabs of succulent, ruby-centred lamb were beautifully matched with roasted artichokes and a dollop of anchovy cream, while a puddle of intense jus brought the just-cooked runner beans into sharp relief. But the real show-stopper was the last act: a glassy, berry-packed champagne jelly accompanied by a creamy, heavily perfumed lavender ice-cream balanced precariously over a crunchy, biscuity base.
In spite of the low-key vibe, there are plenty of witty touches: the blackboard menu can also be found on little scrolls, tucked in with the cutlery in tableside nooks; tap water is served in milk bottles; nibbles come on vintage crockery. The hip staff, meanwhile, are genial and professional, deftly making space in the tiny back bar for the ever-growing fan-base waiting patiently for a table (you can book for lunch, but not for dinner).
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