This long-established Westbourne Grove stalwart continues to produce Lebanese cooking of the highest order. Inside the smallish corner premises, a profusion of plants, seating on different levels and professional and friendly staff make for an atmosphere that, while not exactly informal, is comfortable. The quality of the dining experience is reflected in Al Waha’s popularity – it was buzzing on a recent evening visit. We began our meal with some diverse meze dishes: a gloriously oily, chilli-hot, nutty muhamara; a bright, lemony fuul moukala (fried broad beans); fattoush salad bursting with freshness, the crisp salad warmed by sumac spice, the toasted pitta bread crunchy; and the warmly flavoured comfort dish moujadara – a mixture of rice and lentils, topped with crisp caramelised onion. There was tabouleh too, composed of the tiniest chopped shreds of herbs with lashings of tangy lemon. As we ate, bread came regularly and unobtrusively to the table, served warmed and puffed up from the oven. We shared a mixed grill too: perfectly tender chunks of lamb, chicken and köfte. This was a reminder of how Lebanese food should be – traditionally and painstakingly prepared and a joy to eat.