Albion at The Boundary Project
Albion at The Boundary Project
Michael Franke
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Wed Jul 25 2012
It’s hard not to like somewhere that makes its own jammie dodgers and bourbon biscuits: a bit of oven art for under a pound. These are on sale in the shop portion of Terence Conran’s Shoreditch gastro-palace and hotel, through which you reach the Albion, identifying en route any of the picnic-style goods you’d liked to be served to your table (at a supplement), notably the fine range of own-made biscuits, and cakes.
The menu proper mixes up a bit of gastropub, a bit of café and a bit of hotel (breakfast served all day and a late-night menu featuring welsh rarebit and hot chocolate with shortbread), with a British sensibility that’s both a stance and a result of using seasonal produce and local makers. There are serious sandwiches on bread baked overnight on the premises; sharing plates of crackling, charcuterie or vividly fresh kitchen garden vegetables; snacks such as soup (we tried turnip and squash; delicious), devilled kidneys, omelette and clever salads; and more substantial game pie, rabbit stew, kedgeree, boldly battered and very popular fish and beef-dripping chips and old-school puddings: it’s reliably good.
Large, bare tables line the long room; even with its open brickwork, industrial design vibe and massive windows, it’s hard to believe the building started life as a Victorian warehouse.
Plans are afoot to roll out Albion as a chain of British caffs, with a second branch planned to open on the South Bank in summer 2013.
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