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Please note, this venue is now closed. Time Out Food editors, July 2018.
There’s so much right about fancy caff chain Albion’s latest joint. It’s a beautiful and lofty space – with plenty of different areas to sit, including a dedicated pie room – where everything has been carefully considered. From the warm welcome of free papers to read downstairs to the dashes of on-brand 'Albion red' weaved in throughout the venue, right down to the cords from which lights are suspended. The staff were incredibly attentive, and the house red delicious. Even the loos were lavender-scented and had music playing. So far, so perfect.
So what’s not to like? Well, the food at times. It lurched from great to downright disappointing, the smoked haddock scotch egg landing squarely in the latter camp. Although it had a brilliant orange yolk, dill completely overpowered the fish. The pickled veg plate was excellent, packing a real peppery punch. And the tarragon-laced chicken pie perfectly paired with refreshing mint and fennel peas. The biggest offender was the ‘kedgeree’, entirely without fish but instead bejeweled with sultanas – yuk! It should be renamed Coronation Rice and then immediately removed from the menu. Go and enjoy the space, but perhaps stick to the pie room.