Angels & Gypsies remains an outpost of cool in gritty Camberwell, making booking essential. Dark wooden tables, pews and chairs bearing cross motifs are arranged around a tiled horseshoe bar, with stunning stained-glass windows looming over proceedings. Atmospheric low lighting adds to the ecclesiastical vibe. A display of sourdough loaves and hanging serrano hams herald what is a reliably impressive gastronomic experience.
Tapas are prepared with flair and creativity, and peppered with niche ingredients (cuttlefish, ’nduja, hand-dived scallops) and Galician influences. Albóndiga arrived in an unappealing-looking broth, which belied the dish’s subtleties and strengths; inside the meatball was a soft, sweet apricot and the broth (spicy and saffron-infused) was marvellously moreish. The flavours also shone in a simple salad of goat’s cheese, sweet beetroot and peppery watercress. Gigantes – roasted butter beans with tomato and wild cep oil – didn’t have the punch to stand up to the preceding dishes, however, and should have been delivered first.
Sherries make a significant appearance on the predominantly Spanish wine list, where you’ll also find cocktails and sangria. At lunchtime, there’s now a menu devoted to street food of Mexican extraction, namely burritos (with own-made masa harina tortillas) or tacos – an excellent choice for great-value A&G cooking on the fly.
In keeping with tradition, everything is prepared from scratch on site, using fresh, wholesome, seasonal ingredients; from the organic sourdough that's baked daily to the house-made ice cream churned with Neal’s Yard cream, there is nothing bought in frozen or processed from another kitchen.
Driven by the passion for quality produce, food and drink, we use small independent producers and suppliers whose emphasis is on quality, provenance and traceability. Wild day-boat fish, seasonal organic vegetables from farms in Kent, rare breed pork and organic longhorn beef feature extensively on our menu.
We believe tapas is all about the quality and freshness of ingredients cooked simply in the moment.