Stroll into this cosily chintzy eaterie and you might be forgiven for thinking you’ve entered some kind of 1980s Hellenic equivalent of the Geffrye Museum. Greek-Cypriot knick-knacks sit on every available surface. Oil-burning lamps top the tables; a huge bottle of Metaxa dominates the dark wooden bar; and mini bouzoukis, gourds, plaster Parthenons and Greek pottery frescoes combine to make a charmingly cluttered interior.
Waiters – clad in the traditional garb of white shirts and black waistcoats, of course – are helpful and attentive, although perhaps slightly over keen to sell the day’s specials.
The large menu features a substantial range of grills, steak and meaty stews. A generous helping of kléftiko saw the unctuous lamb slip pleasingly from the bone, and a chunky serving of moussaká also impressed, coming topped with a thick cheese crust. However, calamares was just the wrong side of chewy, and the keftédes meatballs had an unpleasantly oniony tang to them.
Don’t worry if you don’t have room for desserts afterwards; the meal ends with a complimentary portion of rose- and lemon-flavoured loukoúmi.