Ed Marshall / Time Out
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Wed Dec 19 2012
It may be the first London outpost of a Lebanese chain, but if you’re expecting Brgr.co to serve you a humble patty in a flatbread, or perhaps smothered in hoummous, you’d be wide of the mark. In glitzy downtown Beirut, if the chic set want burgers, they take their cues from Manhattan, with no expense spared. Thus the menu here features only the finest raw ingredients – beef from the Duke of Buccleuch’s Scottish estate, say – accompanied by every big-name international condiment you could hope for (Heinz, HP, French’s, Tabasco). There are three ‘standard patties’ (from as petite as four ounces), plus a couple of signature cuts, all available with optional toppings (vintage cheddar, Swiss gruyère), dips (Cajun aioli, horseradish mustard) and sides (coleslaw, jalapeños).
Plenty of burger joints claim to make ‘gourmet’ burgers: Brgr.co actually delivers. Our ‘Butcher’s Cut’ burger came deconstructed: there was an expertly chargrilled patty, a glazed soft bun and pretty selection of garnishes including crinkle-cut gherkins and a thick slice of beef tomato. A Yankee classic, chilli cheese fries, fared less well, thanks to a too-sweet chilli which was more like a bolognese. Happily, the standard ‘crunchy fries’ proved to be a well-executed take on what you’d get at the Golden Arches: ultra-thin, ultra-crunchy and properly salted.
In keeping with the upscale burgers are a well-groomed staff, dressed in crisp white shirts and black ties, who run the place like a well-oiled machine. Decor is smart Soho: exposed brick, glossy dark woods and black leather. A pity that the air was so thick with smoke from the grill; delicious though the scent was while we were in the room, no one wants to go back to the office smelling of lunch.