Poised at the top of Wardour Street, Brgr.co’s first branch outside Lebanon opened to a mixed reception. In a city in the throes of street-food hysteria, it doesn’t curry any favours by plastering a theory of ‘BRGRology’ all over the placemats. Small burgers, made from the cheapest cuts, start at a very reasonable £4.75. Ordering them is more difficult, with the staff schooled in the art of upselling expensive specials and gourmet alternatives. The burgers arrived Ikea-style, laid out for self-assembly with lettuce, tomatoes and pickle on the side.
The meat was cooked to order, but the glazed brioche bun disintegrated quickly and the bacon was flaccid and under-done. A buttermilk onion stack had an excellent, almost Hula Hoop-like crunchiness, while old-fashioned mac ‘n’ cheese was let down by a runny sauce and perfunctory drizzle of truffle oil. Crowded with bare tables and spindle-backed chairs, the restaurant itself is reasonably stylish if unoriginal. You could certainly find a worse burger in London, but compared to Soho’s other joints, this place lacks a bit of soul.