Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Tue Jan 11 2011
This huge 19th-century pub beside Victoria Park has a large garden (complete with busy ‘garden grill’ in summer), a main bar decorated with Victoriana and Eagle-style comic annuals that serves creditable pub fare and, tucked away at the side, a full-blown dining room furnished with retro British Ercol Windsor tables and chairs. This Britishness is celebrated on the menu too, though we were grateful for the inclusion of continental touches such as a pretty bowl of gnocchi topped with crayfish tails, peas and a well-judged saffon sauce. New-season lamb rump was perfectly pink and tender and served with a piquant salsa verde and caper dressing. Fat mackerel fillets came draped over roasted potatoes, a warm fennel salad cutting through the oiliness of the fish. Puddings included elderflower jelly with mixed berries, and treacle tart with apple sorbet. Slow service – a result of understaffing on this occasion – let the generally good standard of cooking down, but the drinks list is enlightened, with good beers (Meantime and various guest ales) and interesting, affordable wines by the glass.
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