If this southern brother of Covent Garden’s Great Queen Street and Waterloo’s Anchor & Hope feels more like a pub than its siblings, there’s good reason: although a few sausage roll-type snacks are available in the front room, this main bar is dedicated to drinkers, and they make the most of it. The open-plan layout and absence of soft furnishings amplifies any boisterousness for diners in the back; not to an off-putting degree, perhaps, but you’ll notice it. Still, the kitchen remains on form, serving seasonal modern British cooking with a few continental influences. The menu is short: about five starters and five mains, plus two or three specials on a blackboard. Meat plays a big part, and rightly so: from roast venison tagliata via deep-fried lamb sweetbreads (a highlight) to crisped pork smothered in a slightly spicy rub and then barbecued over woodchips in the garden, they know how to bring the best out of savvily sourced ingredients. We quibbled with some of the accompaniments (the salad with the tagliata was indifferent), but the kitchen, like the front-of-house staff, still gets much more right than it gets wrong. There are usually four ales on tap (Skinner’s Betty Stogs, perhaps, or Timothy Taylor Golden Best); the wine list offers variety and quality.