2 Bellevue Road
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Fri Sep 30 2011
Lauded by nearly every guide, critic, website and diner, chef Bruce Poole’s restaurant offers a wine list and cooking that is among London’s very best. Pitched firmly at the City bonus and special anniversary crowd, the atmosphere is hushed, the prices high. But once you get past the shock of finding a Mayfair restaurant overlooking Wandsworth Common, the sybaritic pleasures reel you in. The bright colours of some dishes evoke the Mediterranean, such as a starter of yellow tagliatelle with broad beans and amber girolles. With others it’s the flavours that have most impact, such as a dun-hued courgette soup with the sharp, oxalic tang of sorrel, topped with the crunch of fresh croutons.
Both fish and meat cookery show mastery of timing, with a firm fillet of plaice near-translucent, and roast rump of lamb pink and very tender. Little details and add-ons consistently impress; the neatly carved lamb came with a faultless caponata, perfectly crisp, Greek-style boureki glazed with thyme honey, and a tiny lamb meatball in a sweet jus. There’s no carte, just set menus, which makes it hard to resist the desserts; one of the lighter options might be a simple strawberry jelly, set in a glass with a black pepper tuile and yoghurt sorbet.
Some unusually imaginative wines are available by the glass; try a violet-scented zweigelt red from Austria, or a white Terlaner from the Italian Tyrol, with its tropical fruit nose. Of course, there’s also a huge fine wines list, at prices that would cover the annual insurance of one of the Audis or BMWs parked nearby.
Chez Bruce 2 Bellevue Road
020 8672 0114
- Opening hours:
Lunch served noon-2pm Mon-Fri; noon-2.30pm Sat, Sun. Dinner served 6.30-9.45pm Mon-Thur; 6.30-10pm Fri, Sat; 7-9pm Sun
Tube: Wandsworth Common rail
Set lunch (Mon-Fri) £27.50 3 courses; (Sat, Sun) £35 3 courses. Set dinner £45 3 courses
- 2 Bellevue Road
- 020 8672 0114
- 2 Bellevue Road
- Chez Bruce
Food and drink
Eating and drinking facilities. Restaurant. Restaurant and bar facilities. Reservations required. Dinner. Accessible facilities. General facilities. Private rooms. Available for hire
Drinks. Wine buffs. Eating out. Celebrated chefs. Fine dining. Romantic
- Type of event: