Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Tue Oct 16 2012
It’s easy to see why this place has won a reputation as a ‘romantic’ restaurant: it’s something like a cross between a gentlemen’s club and a refined country inn. The light, flower-bedecked conservatory at the back and the moodily lit, wood-panelled rooms in the front are equally attractive. The romantic reputation pays off in an interesting way: Clos Maggiore feels distinctively relaxed and unshowy. We attributed this to a clientele consisting almost entirely of couples rather than money-splashing execs.
Much of the food does full justice to the atmosphere. A boudin blanc of sweetbread and foie gras was subtly seasoned and very light in texture. Succulent roast loin rib of ibérico pork, heroically flavourful, came with classic petits pois à la française. Lower marks went to a rather bland Sicilian aubergine and fig caponata, and to a dish combining roast fillet and braised shoulder of lamb, pistachio cromesquis (croquette), chickpeas and carrots. It just didn’t cohere as a single dish, and the effect was too rich. Even so, we’d happily return – it’s just a lovely place to be. Unequivocal praise goes to the wine list, one of London’s best: though stuffed with costly treasures, it makes a real effort to accommodate tight budgets and includes some interesting bottles. Seek advice from the authoritative but plain-talking sommelier. And note: the set lunch/pre- and post-theatre menu is an outstanding bargain.
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