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Like to live life on the edge? Then this family-run Cantonese restaurant is the won(ton) for you. Once you’re past the impressively ostentatious entrance (koi carp pond, gigantic gold-studded wooden doors flanked by a stone dragon statue) and into the slightly cold-feeling dining room, you’re treated to food that’s either great or a bit disappointing – with seemingly nothing in between.
Duck taro croquettes were nauseatingly oily, spring rolls were bland and the filling to the BBQ pork cheung fun was scanty and dry. But stewed XO tripe in black-pepper sauce was a gently spiced and impressively delicate dish, while prawn dumplings were squidgy and excellent.
A main course of ‘Chairman Mao pork belly’ turned out to be intensely rich and melt-in-the-mouth soft; with his kitchen talents, the totalitarian leader was clearly wasted on politics. Is this a place for a guaranteed delicious meal? No. Is it possible to have delicious food here? Yes. But it’ll involve a bit of chance and canny picking.