This converted boozer, on a corner site in De Beauvoir Town, has made a name for itself since opening in 2012. The offering: no-frills meat dishes, mainly smoked and barbecued, and a fabulous selection of beers, both own-brewed and from top domestic and foreign producers.
The Duke’s beef ribs were named one of Time Out’s 100 best dishes in London in 2012 – a high achievement for a newcomer. On the evidence our most recent visit, however, the staff seemed to have taken their eye off the ball. The spare ribs were fine, but a trio of pulled pork sliders were dull and dry. The famous beef ribs were by far the best part of our meal, but, again, were dry and chewy where they should have been juicy and succulent. Baked beans and chips were good, though mac ’n’ cheese was tough and leathery on top.
Service seemed a bit clueless: our waiter confidently assured us the beer we asked for wasn’t stocked and looked nonplussed when we pointed it out on the list. We hope this was just an off night. It doesn’t take long to build a reputation for good food, but it doesn’t take long to lose it.