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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Tue Jun 19 2012
‘An eagle for an Emperor,’ the old poem goes. The pub named after that most regal of birds can certainly claim nobility of sorts. Perhaps the first to be given the ‘gastro’ tag, it maintains lofty standards to this day.
The formula is simple. The left half of the bar (lining one wall of the single-room space) is given over to drinks; the right-hand side serves as a kitchen. Here, the day’s offerings are chalked on blackboards, with ingredients on view in battered tins by the grill and stove: those bowls brimming with lemons, herbs and eggs aren’t just for show. You might tend towards the pilaf or pasta, until you see what’s on the grill – sardines, bream, Italian sausages. Blackboards imply rotation, but the menu has some stayers; bife ana, the pub’s signature steak sandwich, is a constant.
Turkish imam bayıldı, which pops up occasionally, is a dish of baked aubergine, coriander-spiked couscous and rich yoghurt. It’s light and refreshing, in spite of the name (‘the imam swooned’).
There’s a choice of four real ales, including (of course) Eagle IPA, plus a couple of guest brews. Be prepared to share a table, whether you’re sitting under the high ceilings of the wood-panelled interior, or at one of the four pavement benches.
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