Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Tue Jul 31 2012
It’s easy to sneer at Gazette’s ‘posh brasserie by numbers’ approach, where food is served on dainty boards or in dinky pails and the menu is almost comically Gallic (voulez-vous les escargots? Soupe à l’oignon? Les moules? Oui, bien sûr… you’ll find them all here). But the venue is not trying to be anything other than a smart neighbourhood bistro, which it does rather well. Cooking is solid, rather than sensational, but when you factor in the attractive dining room and can-do attitude of the young staff (who welcome parties of pram-pushing mums as readily as starry-eyed young couples), it makes for a respectable package. The all-day menu caters for the masses: at lunchtime, we like the rich, cheese-laden soft omelettes and the ‘Balhamoise’, a savoury crêpe filled with spinach, tomato and superbly salty goat’s cheese. Likewise, the excellent-value croque monsieur, while it won’t win culinary prizes, equals anything on the Champs-Elysées. For dinner, more serious options come a-calling; our ribeye steak was correctly cooked, the miniature galvanised pot of matchstick fries a fitting accompaniment. A democratically priced Francophile wine list offers plenty by the glass, half-bottle or pichet.
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