Greenhouse

Time Out says

Wed Oct 17 2012

A change of chef in early 2012 (Antonin Bonnet out after six years; Arnaud Bignon in) has done nothing to detract from what is a fabulous dining experience at the Greenhouse.

A la carte prices are still in keeping with the heart-of-Mayfair location (£65 for two courses), but, pleasingly, the set lunch menu remains as last year, at £29 for three courses – excellent value, and a fine way to ease yourself into this sumptuous world.

Dishes arrive as beautiful ensembles, although with as much attention lavished on flavour as on appearance. French technique is applied to combinations of ingredients that cross continental boundaries for inspiration: on our recent visit, shrimp tartare was sharpened with tiny cubes of granny smith apple and draped in wafer-thin slices of radish for a memorable starter; another of girolles, enoki mushrooms and three quail eggs came with a startling yuzu jelly. Tasting menus (£90) take the experimentation levels higher, with the likes of scallops paired with tandoori masala and cabbage, or lamb with ras-el-hanout and aubergine.

The wine list is notably lengthy, although lunches can be enlivened by the many appealing options by the glass. Service is smiling, unobtrusive and slick – this place really is flawless.