27A Hay's Mews
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
A change of chef in early 2012 (Antonin Bonnet out after six years; Arnaud Bignon in) has done nothing to detract from what is a fabulous dining experience at the Greenhouse.
A la carte prices are still in keeping with the heart-of-Mayfair location (£65 for two courses), but, pleasingly, the set lunch menu remains as last year, at £29 for three courses – excellent value, and a fine way to ease yourself into this sumptuous world.
Dishes arrive as beautiful ensembles, although with as much attention lavished on flavour as on appearance. French technique is applied to combinations of ingredients that cross continental boundaries for inspiration: on our recent visit, shrimp tartare was sharpened with tiny cubes of granny smith apple and draped in wafer-thin slices of radish for a memorable starter; another of girolles, enoki mushrooms and three quail eggs came with a startling yuzu jelly. Tasting menus (£90) take the experimentation levels higher, with the likes of scallops paired with tandoori masala and cabbage, or lamb with ras-el-hanout and aubergine.
The wine list is notably lengthy, although lunches can be enlivened by the many appealing options by the glass. Service is smiling, unobtrusive and slick – this place really is flawless.
Greenhouse 27A Hay's Mews
020 7499 3331
- Opening hours:
Lunch served noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri. Dinner served 6.30-11pm Mon-Sat
Tube: Green Park tube
Set lunch £25 2 courses, £29 3 courses. Set meal £65 2 courses, £75 3 courses, £90 tasting menu
- 27A Hay's Mews
- 020 7499 3331
- 27A Hay's Mews
Food and drink
Restaurant and bar facilities. Take away. Reservations required. Lunch. Vegetarian dishes. Accessible facilities. General facilities. Private rooms. Available for hire
Business. Drinks. Wine buffs. Going in a group. Eating out. Creative cooking. Fine dining
- Type of event: