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Guadeloupe is a little piece of France in the Caribbean, and this new restaurant is a littler piece of that island in Hammersmith. Unlike Guadeloupe the island however, the restaurant does not benefit from the entente cordiale of a former colonising power. The interior is a basic, no-frills eating space, and the menu a magpie affair, taking influences from wherever it sees fit.
The French accent is strongest on a mackerel gratin from the starter menu, while the island’s creole heritage (a style of cooking with links as far-reaching as Africa, Europe and India) sees fish, chicken or beef stews served in spicy, tomato-based sauces. Salt cod fritters, a Caribbean mainstay, suggest a deft hand in the kitchen and were particularly moreish.
An excellent Colombo curried goat (named after a spice mix originating from Sri Lanka) is served on the bone, the marrow infusing the intense, viscous sauce to create a gratifying flavour that lingers long. They go a little easier here on the scotch bonnet peppers than other Caribbean restaurants nearby, and coconut was noticeable by its absence from the rice and kidney beans, but it was still a highly satisfying (and filling) plate of food.
The rum cocktail list is short and to the point. A potent local white rum is mixed with sugar and a squeeze of lime (staff call it ‘Ti Punch’); the choice of wines are merely red, or white.
While you can get Guadeloupean street food done deliciously from Bokit’la’s mobile market stall, this Hammersmith newcomer pins the cuisine more firmly onto the London map.