Although the name tells diners what to expect, there’s more to Hix than chops and oysters – Blythburgh pork crackling with apple sauce, for example (an ideal nibble), or irresistible deep-fried sprats with caper mayonnaise, followed by roast free-range Goosnargh chicken with wild garlic sauce (for two). But oysters (there’s always a choice, Helford natives for £3.20 each, say, or Colchester rocks at £1.95), chops and steaks feature prominently. Most diners have been male whenever we’ve dined here. We watched in admiration as one table tucked into a medley of steaks; the choice includes porterhouse (for two) and hanger steak with baked bone marrow. We can vouch for the barbecued Galloway beef ribs. Mixed beets with goat’s curd and watercress is among the lighter starters. Puds are nicely retro with modern twists; you can stick to steamed treacle sponge with custard, or dare to try absinthe jelly with vanilla ice-cream. Alongside the global wine list there’s a good choice of beers and ciders, including Hix Oyster Ale, brewed by Palmers of Bridport. Like St John nearby, Hix offers feasts for ten or more people. Owner Mark Hix is also director of food at the Albemarle.