‘Holy the sea’ says a wall-mounted slogan at this landmark establishment, and it’s clear from the bright, colourful interior design – heavy on the piscine motifs and maritime paraphernalia – that fish is the religion of the rejuvenated Kensington Place. Sure, you can toy with a ham hock or waste your time on a veg risotto, but the smart money’s on some fresh fillets plucked from banks of ice in the in-house fishmonger (which in turn is supplied by Billingsgate and the fisher-folk of Cornwall). These might be grilled and served with a raucous beurre noisette or a smoky sauce vierge, heavy on the capers. On recent visits, we’ve been particularly taken with the sea bream and the lemon sole, teamed with triple-cooked chips and a pichet of blanc. Starters of mackerel rollmop with a delicate potato salad, and spiced crab with apple, were standouts, and an earthenware pot of raspberry and apricot crumble provided a splendid end to the meal. True to theme, the water is served in fish-shaped jugs, which glug rewardingly every time you pour. KP also contains a pleasant bar: a fine place to cradle a tawny port after an epic seafood session. Very civilised.