Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Mon Oct 17 2011
The neutral-toned decor, faultless service, good acoustics and unfussy atmosphere at Kitchen W8 appeal to a well-heeled clientele, half of whom are French (but then, so it seems, is half of Kensington). That the exacting French diners embrace Brit chef Philip Howard’s food is testament to its exceptional standard. Yet the restaurant isn’t exclusively a playground for the elite; the £19.50 three-course set lunch is one of the best Michelin-starred bargains around.
The kitchen offers a regularly changing menu with a modern lightness that’s combined with classically beautiful execution. A late May selection hit all the marks for seasonality with wild garlic, English strawberries, artichokes, Jersey Royals, mousserons and sorrel. A starter of smoky, grilled white asparagus topped with rose veal, silky scrambled egg and microgreens was a lovely combination and a pretty melange of pink, green and pale yellow, all tied together with a heady black truffle sauce. Also of note was a killer bitter chocolate and thyme pavé with salty hits of caramel in the form of ice-cream, crisp shards and honeycomb.
The formula works so well that the owners, Howard and restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas, have recently revamped long-running Sonny’s in Barnes as Sonny’s Kitchen.
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