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Since starting life in a Pop Brixton shipping container, Kricket’s been hopping about all over the place, winning fans with its modern Anglo-Indian sharing food. Think Dishoom vibes minus the vintage memorabilia. For this latest branch, its third and biggest so far, Kricket has made the west London leap, delivering this stylish 100-seater slap-bang next to the old BBC Television Centre.
The menu is the longest yet, though Kricket groupies need not despair: there are big overlaps. Take the signature keralan fried chicken, bowls of which were being pumped out the open kitchen so fast it made KFC’s servers look like they were caught in a slow-mo scene from ‘The Matrix’. It didn’t disappoint, either. The chicken was moist and tender, while the batter was enviably crisp, made all the better by the soothing curry mayo. Other favourites shone, too. The bhel puri was rave-worthy, and the date and pistachio kulcha (flatbread) was wonderful: slathered in fruity, nutty goodness.
But this Kricket has also got some ace new offerings. Like the bombay toastie, which was just lovely: filled with piccalilli (chopped pickled vegetables and spices) and oozing cheese lava. The desserts, too, were cracking. The chocolate rabdi (a condensed-milk-based sweet thing) was rich decadence, elevated by quince and crumbly nankathai (an Indian biscuit), and the malai kuli was absolutely heartwarming: like a fragrant Mini Milk for grown-ups.
However, the meal had a few flaws. The roast lamb curry looked magnificent, but the meat was tough in parts and the sauce lacked kick. And the samphire pakoras, one of Kricket’s hit dishes, were fairly bland. Still, this branch is going places. When they get it right, the food here is fantastic. And overall, it’s got flair. Go for the friendly staff, (some) brilliant grub, and a good night washed down with a steaming masala chai.