La Petite Maison

Time Out says

Tue Oct 16 2012

Like most top-end restaurants in France, La Petite Maison doesn’t care a fig about dress codes. That’s one reason that lunch here, in this London outpost of a famous Nice watering hole, is such a deeply enjoyable experience. Nearly everyone was dressed casually, and two large family groups made a happy noise in the centre of the room. At lunchtime, you really could be in Provence: two huge windows letting in lots of light, white walls, jolly Gallic prints.

While the food can come at a price (most mains are over £20, and some are way over), the large choice of hors d’oeuvres allows you to put together a satisfying meal without breaking la banque. Two of us shared five, which was plenty. We had minor quibbles: thinly sliced octopus with lemon oil tasted great, but was too small to justify a price tag just short of £15, and excellent ratatouille didn’t need pointless nuggets of feta cheese mixed in.

Everything else was perfect, especially pissaladière (presented as five luscious rectangles) and petits farcis, tomatoes and courgettes with an earthy veal-based stuffing. The wine list starts just below £30 and is well chosen at every level. Service is wonderful: warm and attentive, and happy to see us linger. If you want cutting-edge cooking, go elsewhere. If you want real Provençal cooking in joyful surroundings, come here.