This Mayfair restaurant - open since 1976 - is something of a London institution. It's pretty old-school, with a raffish art collection (now sadly depleted), ultra-professional waiters and a fair few nods to its past as a hot celebrity-haunt - Michael Caine was one of the founders.
The menu combines classic British cooking with French brasserie fare. Dishes range from starters of lobster bisque, foie gras roulade and a pan-fried calves liver salad to mains of fish and chips, grilled lemon sole with parsley butter and the house fish pie. An oriental duck salad and grilled salmon with soy, ginger, sweetcorn and pak choi offer a bit of flexibility.
The wine list offers a surprising number of new world options alongside an old world selection that focuses on France. Twenty one from across the list are available by the glass, too.