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In place of the late Peckham pizzeria Beautiful Pizza Boy comes Made of Dough, the first bricks ’n’ mortar spot for a trendy street food stall. Interiors are airy, with a stylish marble bar: it’s basically the old joint given a few moody licks of paint, but lovely nonetheless. Bellissimo.
The food was all excellent. The pizza dough was blistered, chewy and very well-proved. It was as fine a Neopolitan-style sourdough base as I’ve had in London. Topped with very good Brindisa chorizo, warm piquillo peppers, sweet San Marzano toms and fior di latte – it was tangy, fresh and humming with the sausage’s piquant paprika heat. Better still was the merguez. Strewn with lamb sausage from Flock & Herd butchers across the road, red onion, shredded cavolo nero and yet more fior di latte, it’s set to become a go-to classic pizza round these parts.
One grumble: the lack of plates. My side salad (a fresh pile of cavolo nero and pomegranate) was served on a piece of paper. That might be okay for slices of salchichón salami or olives, but it’s a bizarre, impractical affectation too far when you’re chasing pomegranate seeds round the table with your fork. Please! PLATES.
But doing just milkshakes for pud is a good idea: my biscotti and tiramisu number, naughtied up with a shot of Kahlúa, was a deliciously infantilising way to bow out. Go spend your hard-earned dough on this well-made, erm, dough.