The bright yellow signage means Malletti is hard to miss – which is good, because you shouldn’t. This little takeaway joint supplies pizza the Italian way: by the rectangular slice, wrapped in paper for munching on the go. Arrayed in colourful strips along the bar, the pizzas on display are an appetising sight. Spicy salami and chilli has a firm, light base, with a rich, sweet tomato topping and a real kick. Crisped courgette and parmesan is brightly herbed with oregano, while potato and sausage is saved from blandness by a generous sprinkling of aromatic rosemary.
Malletti also offers a pasta and risotto ‘of the day’ – perhaps aubergine ravioli in tomato sauce, spicy sausage penne or mushroom risotto. Prices (from £3.95 for a generous slice of pizza, £5.45 for pasta) are good value. There are stools to perch on, but Malletti isn’t intended as a sit-in venue. Instead, wander off around Soho, letting the taste of Italy transport you to sunnier climes.