Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Tue Oct 16 2012
Think of Polish home cooking and you’re probably not imagining eating it somewhere like this: a simple yet swish café, stylishly and humorously branded. ‘We have a vast wine selection’, says the menu, ‘one white, one red and even a rosé’. Orders are taken at the counter, and delivered swiftly to your table.
The food is straightforward, and straightforwardly priced: starters £3, puddings the same, mains at £5. Eschewing that wine list for Zywiec and Tyskie beer, we began with a half portion of ‘ruskie’ pierogi (a satisfying mix of potato, onion and ‘white cheese’), then got stuck into richly flavoured pork shoulder gulasz with mash, and slightly soggy fish cakes that were redeemed by a wonderful shaved cucumber and tomato salad with dill dressing. The nalesniki (folded pancakes with a sweetened ricotta-like cheese and chocolate sauce) seemed bland, but our appetite was by then on the wane.
Mamuska!’s clientele reflects the Elephant & Castle setting – yes, several Polish diners watching the Polish news on the telly, but also Chinese, a cockney geezer, and a corner table of dressed-down business types. A highly enjoyable place to eat decent food at low prices.
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