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<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
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Time Out says
Wed Jun 20 2012
At the wrong end of Edgware Road, as the Middle Eastern restaurants trail off, lies this unexpected gem. Mandalay’s looks – half ‘greasy spoon’ with brown plastic tablecloths, half Burmese teahouse with wonkily hung pictures of the ancient city of Bagan on the walls – have remained unchanged for years. We wouldn’t have it any other way; the place oozes a low-key charm that has garnered it a devoted following. The ten tightly packed tables are full each night with a mixture of students, Asiaphiles and expats (best make a reservation). Burma’s food draws influence from its bordering countries (India, China and Thailand) and is rendered to a very high standard here, at bargain prices. A tangle of crisp beansprout fritters came with three dipping sauces: sour tamarind, salty soy and hot chilli. A chicken and shredded cabbage salad had earthy notes of turmeric and caramelised onion, though could have used a zip of lime. Both meat and vegetarian curries have deeply satisfying flavours and make a hearty meal with rice and nan. As the world’s attention turns to Burma, this underrated cuisine could be ready for its moment in the spotlight.
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