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Aqua blue lights and a slightly clichéd marine aesthetic are the most noticeable features on entering this taverna-style restaurant. It’s fancier and more expensive than you might expect for such a location, on busy Clapham Road halfway between Stockwell and Oval tubes, and although the white tablecloths and live music give a distinguished edge, our experience was somewhat marred by inconsistent and slow service.
To start, pan-fried mushrooms with chorizo and garlic were a bit lacklustre, but the main courses compensated. Garlic-roasted cod had a crisp, slightly charred skin that was delicious against the moist salted cod. Black scabbard à madeirense was a light fillet of mild flavoured fish, served in the traditional Madeiran style with the tropical tastes of pan-fried banana and a passionfruit sauce. These paired particularly well with Vinho Verde (or ‘green’ wine) from the northern Minho region, which had a slight fizziness to it like a low-key sparkling wine.