Massimo

Time Out says

Wed Oct 17 2012

Even the business card at Massimo is solid and gold-embossed. The opulent David Collins’ designed oyster bar and restaurant in the Corinthia hotel is all glistening gold and marble, tempered with deep, glossy brown and beige; the eye wanders from the magnificent lighting baubles to the wine wall-cabinets, from lunettes and candy-striped columns to each perfect detail of upholstery and napery.

The food, fine as it is, cannot compete for attention. The international clientele are offered a wide-ranging Italian menu with a twist – perhaps more so than previously, following the eponymous chef’s return to Rome. A carpaccio of tuna was more of a cured fillet with a medley of micro coriander leaves; a ‘bruschetta’ proved a painter’s palette DIY job; torta della nonna contained an ethereal citrusy mousse rather than the dense lemon custard of tradition.

All was virtually faultless, measured, and with just a touch of frisson. Service followed suit. If the pricing – not least of the wine – is hard to swallow, the outstanding breads, fine petits fours and unfussy detailing go far to sweeten the pill.