Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
Budding restaurateurs take note: Medlar’s seasonal menu and wine list are close to perfection, guaranteed to pique the interest of reviewers, and, more importantly, attract a crowd. Yes, an extra vegetarian starter and main (there’s currently just one of each) wouldn’t go amiss, but otherwise read and drool: lamb’s tongue with lentil salad and mustard fruits; roast hake with summer bean ragoût and palourde clams; redcurrant sorbet with lemon madeleines; 14 globally sourced wines by the glass, carafe and bottle (from a vast list).
So, does the execution measure up? Well, mostly. Presentation is generally excellent, as is textural variation. Take, for instance, a colourful crab raviolo starter with samphire, brown shrimps and bisque sauce; or, to follow, assiette of pork (tender confit, delightfully oozing rissoles, crunchy crackling) with peas, girolles and anchovies. A moist, light raspberry and frangipane tart was pleasing too. And yet, portions are small, carbohydrates a rarity (we demanded more bread), and flavours occasionally misjudged – halibut ceviche with avocado, keta and squid had an unpleasantly sweet aftertaste.
Behind cordoned-off pavement tables and window screens that partially alleviate the King’s Road traffic, the interior is stylishly neutral in tone: all greys, greens and bare boards. Chelsea’s lunching ladies put their world to rights here, waited on by exemplary staff. Fine tuning could work wonders.
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