Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Thu Jul 26 2012
The big brother of the Ottolenghi cafés, NOPI has the same sense of culinary adventure found in Yotam Ottolenghi’s cookery books. Its largely white ground floor is softened by brass fittings and lampshades; the look continues in the basement, where there are communal tables and an open kitchen.
A diverting drinks list includes several cocktails. The menu advises choosing three small sharing plates each, though it’s possible to have a three-course meal. The best dish from the veg list was a thrilling five-spice tofu with tomato and cardamom passata and braised aubergine. There was a long hiatus before mackerel on nettle vichyssoise and apple, topped by wasabi fish roe, appeared (a slightly murky disappointment), together with two top-quality dishes: wild sea bream with smoked labneh and shards of preserved lemon, and twice-cooked baby chicken with little bowls of chilli sauce and lemon myrtle salt.
Six dishes, plus a shared pudding and one glass of wine, came to more than £90 at lunch – spend less and you’ll leave peckish. There’s admirable passion and ambition, but the cost, combined on this occasion with a snippy waitress, uneven dish pacing and confusion over the booking, left us disappointed.
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