Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>2/5
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Time Out says
Tue Dec 15 2009
Not much can be done to make the dining room of a modern conference hotel feel like a family-run Italian. Get lost on the way to the loos and you might end up facing a flip chart. But for clandestine dining you couldn’t do better than this over-designed restaurant down the road from Euston Station. Tinkly lounge music sets the tone, lunch looks like a good deal, and staff are eager to please. From the selection of ever-so slightly doughy breads – glazed rolls, focaccia and knobbly grissini – the kitchen shows it’s trying hard. Dishes don’t always manage to pull together the components and deliver the expected earthiness. ‘Wood-roasted beetroot’ with goat’s cheese was sliced petal-thin and lost under a heap of micro leaves. White polenta with wild garlic and mushrooms wasn’t as bosky as we’d hoped. Grey mullet with black olive tapenade and chilli-ed green beans packed more punch. The appearance of a sunken-looking baked apple with pecorino, halved raspberries and toasted bread roll for dessert was a downer, yet things ended on a high with the petits fours accompanying impeccable espresso.
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