Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
Olivo is part of a small group which includes a pizzeria, a seafood restaurant (Olivomare) and another focused on meat, plus a deli/wine shop – all around the Victoria/Belgravia borders. This restaurant, the mothership, specialises in Sardinian dishes. Decor is bright and colourful, in the island’s traditional aquamarine and dark orange. The atmosphere is buzzy and convivial; the service welcoming and efficient.
Intriguing dishes dot the menu, such as ricci de mare (iced raw sea urchins with crostini), roast rabbit wrapped in parma ham, and sebada (Sardinian cheese fritters with honey). Spaghetti bottarga – a creamy mound of pasta in a sauce of cheese and freshly grated grey mullet roe was an umami-packed delight, as was linguine al granchio, dressed with sautéed fresh crab meat, garlic, parsley and subtle, but evident, chilli.
Although beef, veal and calves’ liver are on the menu, seafood seems to be the forte: steamed sea bream with spinach was perfectly cooked and a plate-filling yellowfin tuna, chargrilled to exactly the degree requested. A delicious bottle of vernaccia and a generous and varied selection of Sardinian cheeses with walnuts and toasted ciabatta rounded off a memorable meal.
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