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When haute Sri Lankan restaurant Paradise opened back in 2019, the foodie press raved about its mutton shoulder rolls and uncompromisingly spicy small plates. A few tough years on, the hype has died down – and so, perhaps, have the spice levels. The mutton rolls have slipped off the menu. But it’s still worth a visit for its luxe, imaginative takes on Sri Lankan dishes, made with responsibly sourced British ingredients.
First appearances are a bit unpromising – this is seedy old Soho, where you could combine your visit with a ‘boyzilian’ next door. The interior is striving so hard for grey-walled edginess that it feels slightly like we’re about to be subjected to a mysterious industrial process instead of fed dinner. But the enticing-sounding menu, neatly compartmentalised into smaller and larger plates, meat and veg, put that fear to bed.
The gigantic Ceylonese-spiced prawns were an early highlight: great big charred beasts, their shells so soft they didn’t need peeling, served with a sweet seaweed butter for slathering. The crab kothu roti was impressively generous with its star attraction, the Devon white spider-crab meat, even if it needed something to cut through its dense, sweet carbiness. And the addition of crunchy almond and curry leaf brittle transformed a cashew curry into something moreish and texturally thrilling.
Sometimes, the complexity on display was a little challenging. The paneer came in an uncompromising slab, topped with a thick, moss-like layer of bright green chervil and coriander chutney: intriguing rather than delicious. But things were refreshingly familiar in the breads department, with a divinely flaky ghee roti making me wish for a saucier dish or two to dip it in.
It would have been irresponsible to leave without ordering a hopper. The delicate, lacy pancake that arrived might not have come with the addictive accompanying chutneys you get at Sri Lankan mini-chain Hoppers. But Paradise’s version might just swing it for the rich yolk nestled in its version. Apparently, it’s laid by hens who live in Cornwall’s Roseland Peninsula – clearly, living in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty does wonders for their work ethic.
Paradise is unquestionably cool, unquestionably innovative. But I did find myself questioning whether I’d rush back. You need three or four small plates a head to make a meal, and with many dishes hovering around the £20 mark, that’s an expensive proposition for a restaurant that somehow feels impressive, rather than lovable. Still, if you want to immerse your tastebuds with sweet, buttery, complex flavours, it’s hard to beat.
The vibe A hyped Sri Lankan-inspired spot in an unpromising corner of Soho.
The food Imaginative small plates that show off the quality of their carefully sourced British ingredients.
The drink A short list of natural wines is supplemented by refined cocktails, laced with tropical fruits and spices.
Time Out tip Book yourself a booth for maximum cosiness.