Attracting a mix of business-people, shoppers and tourists, Paul’s flagship London branch has a large restaurant at the rear with pretty, retro-French decor. Dishes such as paillasson (a giant rösti topped with discs of goat’s cheese, served with roast tomatoes and salad) come with a selection of rolls and butter. A quiche, eaten cold, was crisp on the bottom, but still had an uncooked layer of pastry. The chocolate macarons were correctly moist and creamy at centre with a good clean cocoa flavour. The caring, attentive waiters here put many in posh restaurants to shame – pity we can’t say the same about staff in the small Paul branches dotted around town.