Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Tue Sep 27 2011
Phoenix Palace is a grande dame among London’s Chinese restaurants: a little gaudy and slightly overdressed, but perfectly well mannered. Thankfully, the chintzy decor doesn’t detract from the food, so the authentic Cantonese cooking here is unlikely to disappoint.
With the likes of abalone, crab and lobster up for grabs, shellfish is king of the Palace, but the choice of exotic meats is almost as regal. Ostrich, kangaroo and venison offer a rare twist to the usual repertoire.
Our ‘Chinese tapas’ of pigs’ trotters in rice wine made an unctuous beginning to the meal. We can also vouch for the beef with pickled ginger and pineapple – a quirky cousin of the Cantonese classic sweet and sour, with a fine balance of flavours (including a pleasant bite from the ginger).
Cantonese pipa beancurd, made of fried mashed beancurd served atop broccoli and braised mushrooms, pleased both vegetarians and meat-eaters.
The French-based wine list includes stupendous vintages at more than £200 a bottle (handy if you’re entertaining a head of state), but also a varied choice of Chinese spirits. With excellent service to boot, this is an ideal spot for a feed – whether you’re holding court or simply sharing a midweek meal.
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