Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
A mite faded, but still enticing after some 20 years of plaudit earning and award gathering, Pied-à-Terre is currently showcasing the talent of Marcus Eaves, who left his training ground at sister restaurant L’Autre Pied in June 2011.
The decor – mostly brown and beige, with occasional flashes of pinks and reds from glassware, artwork and floral decorations – feels muted and underwhelming; more dramatic touches are reserved for the private rooms. Best bet is to be ensconced in the cosy, almost intimate front room, with light filtering in from the street.
Eaves is clearly determined not simply to maintain the style of pretty, intricately woven dishes, but to make a fair bid for the crown of ‘London’s best-value set lunch’ – which is good news for (relatively) cash-strapped diners. Elaboration can quickly grow tiresome, however pretty the plates and the plating, but Eaves has a markedly delicate touch: in the implausibly fragile canapé wafers encasing droplets of zingy guacamole, for instance; or the lightest of foie gras mousses partnering smoked eel fillet, lifted by a slim shard of green apple.
There are earthier notes to balance the near-abstraction: a truffled spelt risotto served amply in a chunky, resolutely rectangular dish; the brown flesh of poached sea bream and warm chunks of walnut bread. All is not faultless: loin of Middlewhite, clearly cooked without fat, was a suggestion rather than essence of porkiness; and salting can be heavy at times – stridently misplaced in a heavily saline caramel chocolate.
Generosity even at set-meal level inspires forgiveness, however, as does the warmth of the staff, not least the sommelier, proudly displaying the provenance of the lowliest wines on an exhaustive list.
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