Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
First impressions of Plateau do it few favours: after the brisk reception greeting, we sipped cocktails in a bar where the crisp low furniture, acres of space and somewhat sterile minimalism put us in mind of a hotel lobby. When we were shown to our tables, however, the modern conservatory aspect of the building came into its own – the view down from the fourth floor into the square is impressive enough, but the real fun is looking up through the roof into the nest of skyscrapers that reach above – and our waitress was so unaffectedly pleasant and obliging that even the business-like surroundings warmed up.
The food was mostly a bit meek – heavily smoked mackerel lightened with a too-gentle horseradish cream; a tasty, soothing but very mash-based fish pie; and startlingly white plaice fillet given too little kick by capers and parsley. From the good-value Express Menu (two courses and glass of the house wine for £13.50), a baby spinach, crouton and parmesan salad of which little was, rightly, expected, was followed by a tender, flavour-packed but insufficiently crisped rectangle of belly pork with puréed bubble and an exquisitely rich jus. Even so, the whole experience was really rather engaging.
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