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Squint, and Plum Valley looks like the smartest restaurant ever. All dark wood panelling and moody low lighting, this dim sum joint bears more than a passing resemblance to that emperor of Cantonese cusine, Hakkasan. A sleek, chic oasis in the centre of gaudy Chinatown, it’s only when you look a little closer that you realise the seats at Plum Valley are pleather, and the prices (thank God) are more budget than blow-out.
What you get for your money is not bad. The prawn in a sesame roll was sweet and fresh, the juiciness of the crustacean offset by the nuttiness of the rice paper it was wrapped in. The dumplings, too, were decent: taro croquettes were meaty and rich, if a little floury, and there was a lovely hit of ginger in the Shanghai-style pork and crabmeat soup dumpling.
Nothing was truly excellent, but if you’re after standard Cantonese fare in faux-luxe surroundings, and you don’t mind brusque service (pretty much the norm in Chinatown), Plum Valley’s the one. But go with a date in the evening – the lighting’s a bit sexy for lunchtime. That way, you’ll never even spot the pleather.