Time Out says
Fri Jun 24 2011
Four new restaurants within two years is pretty good going. That’s the tally of Russell Norman and Richard Beatty, proprietors of Polpo, Polpetto, Spuntino and now Da Polpo, all in the West End, all heavily inspired by New York Italian joints and all achingly hip.
By the time number four comes along – only months after two, then three – it’s little wonder Polpo IV’s starting to look like a chain restaurant, presenting fans with a creeping sense of déjà vu. Here (again) are the tin ceiling tiles, the filament light bulbs, the zinc bar tops, even the staff with heavy tattoos. Da Polpo is simply more of the same.
When the chain is Polpo, however, this is no bad thing. We all need a little New York hip now and again, a cool soundtrack and the illusion of Big-Apple edginess.
(Da) Polpo’s kitchen here is as on form as ever. The meatball section has been beefed up (ha!) to six options, and our pork and fennel version was moist and well spiced, served in a rich and flavour-packed tomato sauce. Heritage tomatoes were superior to the usual pallid varieties we get in the UK, partly helped by a dressing which seemed to intensify their ripe, summery flavour.
Ingredient quality was consistently good, such as a fresh mozzarella ball, served on a base of peeled broad beans and pea shoots. A ‘white pizza’ (no tomato) topped with anchovy had appealingly chewy dough, crisp in places. The only miss was the grilled focaccia. Placing thick bread on a hot grill doesn’t toast it, it merely brands it with tramlines – which although they look interesting when it’s served, don’t do anything for the flavour or texture of the focaccia.
The differences to the other Polpos are subtle. This one has a larger bar than its counterparts. But like the others, this has a no-reservations policy for dinner: very convenient for the restaurateur, but much less helpful for the diner.
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