Queen Adelaide feels a genteel world away from the bustling Uxbridge Road outside. Its smart, chandelier-lit dining room is separated from a buzzing pub by a large central bar, giving the dark wood-clad space a lively feel, even on quiet, midweek evenings. Harveys Sussex Best, plus two or three regularly changing guests, keep the ale drinkers merry.
Most dishes on the daily-changing menu deviate little from the standard gastropub repertoire, though there are a few interesting surprises amid the beer-battered cod, Angus beef burger, weekend brunches and sticky toffee pud. Starters in particular pack a refined punch, with sautéed chicken livers made sweet by tart red grapes and sherry vinegar, and potted salt beef counterbalanced by watercress, apple and capers.
The mains were altogether less impressive. A dish promising three types of lamb (spiced skewer, merguez and kofta) was generously sized, and the meat had been perfectly cooked, but a mound of shamefully bland couscous let the side down. Grilled sea bass was similarly marred by some flavourless truffle potatoes.
Nevertheless, the Adelaide’s friendly, proficient service and warm atmosphere make it a pleasant place to linger over a meal.