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Diners looking for a glad time should head down to this Docklands restaurant on a Friday or Saturday night, when the long, floor-to-ceiling windowed room (with stunning views of London City Airport) is transformed into a convivial hub filled with energetic live jazz. A smart bar at the rear of the restaurant is a popular point for punters, who come for the drink as much as the food. While crispy duck (expertly shredded by dapper waiters) seems to be a mainstay, we suggest trying the chef specials – particularly the ‘bay fong tong’ crab. This Hong Kong classic has the crustacean served buried under a flurry of boldly flavoured fried garlic and dried chillies. Steamed egg ‘three ways’ was tame in comparison: the savoury custard curiously bland, even though there were copious amounts of salted egg yolk and chunks of thousand-year-old egg. Stir-fried pea shoots, perfectly rendered, came in generous portions. Service was attentive yet unintrusive, and staff seemed to be having as good a time as the diners. This is a place that is clearly confident in its abilities, not a surprise considering its name: ‘yi ban’ in Mandarin means first class.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009
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