Restaurants

By Guy Dimond

Is the Middle East currently 'in' or 'out'? It seems to be 'in' at Devonshire Square, the last outpost of smart City architecture and money before the squalor of Petticoat Lane and the real East End begins. Our fellow City folk seemed charmed by the faux-kasbah feel of this stylish basement restaurant, which feels romantically charged enough to merit opening in the evenings (still a rare thing in the City). Service is attentive and glam, the lighting's low and cocktails flow. It's got definite feelgood factor.

The menu's a mix of Moroccan main courses and Lebanese starters. This culinary fusion makes sense in many ways: the best Lebanese dishes are the meze (small dishes eaten here as starters), and the Moroccans are better at main courses. However, Kenza has structured the dishes into idiot-proof set menus, so that diners are steered towards two starters then a main course, whether you want to eat that way or not. It's similar to the way that Chinese set menus steer you towards the most boring dishes. The only way to eat truly à la carte is to sit in the lounge bar.

As Lebanese meze goes, our dishes were perfectly adequate, though the more unusual Lebanese dishes have been expunged from the menu; if you want testicles, you'll need to go to Edgware Road. The Moroccan main courses were well-flavoured with spice mixtures and the sweet-sour tangs of meats and dried fruits, but the renditions of lamb and prune tagine or the chargrilled swordfish were merely satisfactory.

But to focus on the food is to miss the point of Kenza. It's a retreat from tough city life, a place to unwind and relax. As such it's created the right atmosphere with intimate alcoves, a sumptously decorated bar and vaguely ethnic chill-out music. It's a Momo-lite for the City suits who want a bolt-hole close to work. As such, it should do well.

Time Out Issue 1936: September 26-October 2 2007