Restaurants

By Jenni Muir

Regardless of where you stand on the frosting or no-frosting issue when it comes to carrot cake, one thing it should never be is dry. And cake - along with coffee - is something a café just has to get right. At Kensington Square Kitchen the coffee's from Monmouth (always a good sign), but our cakes were as dry as a jar of Gold Blend instant granules. Although the small selection was tempting, the eating quality was not helped by pre-slicing, making them quick and easy to serve, yes, but leaving the sides of the cakes exposed to the air. We wondered how long ago they had been made. This needs to be sorted out quickly, because it threatens what is in other respects a charming spot.

Staff are keen to please, an attitude that seems to come from the top as chef-patron Sara Adams came out in her whites to clarify exactly the degree of doneness required for an order of rare burger, which came with coleslaw, barbecue sauce and fries. The day's salads and other specials are scrawled on a small blackboard and enticingly displayed on the corner dresser. High-rise bacon and egg pie was so stylishly presented it made our mouths water. Eight pounds gets you the large salad selection, on our visit a colourful compilation of aubergine, pomegranate and feta; fennel, tiny beans, interesting leaves and cumin-flavoured sweet potato - a fine light lunch with bread and good butter.

The serene cream and palest green decor suits the tiny ground-floor space, and chairs have been cleverly chosen to be comfortable yet smart and easy to clean. Don't be disappointed if you can't see a free table - there's more downstairs, which also has a good selection of magazines to help you while away a lonely lunch hour.

Time Out London Issue 1941: October 31-November 6 2007