Restaurants

The lovely and characterful location of this Oliver Peyton establishment (in the elegant courtyard conservatory of the Georgian townhouse that houses the Wallace Collection of art) wins most customers over before they’ve even picked up the menu. When they do, they’ll find that while there are plenty of small dishes for museum visitors – quiches, cheeses, pâtés, cream teas – you wouldn’t come here for quick sustenance (no self-service counter, and prices above impulse level). While extravagant ingredients like foie gras and caviar feature, the main à la carte, along with the atmosphere, is lighter and more modern. To start, good rillettes de porc spoke well of the terrine selection, and sautéed prawns showed the chef’s penchant for deeply infused herbal flavourings, though also for butter. Lamb with provençal galette and thyme sauce was well-handled, but the cod with squid, artichoke and ham was very much the star: the fish itself delicate and firm, and the accompanying ingredients all harmonising well. Disappointingly, no one could tell us any details of the cod’s provenance (though otherwise staff were pleasant and capable, if occasionally distracted). The Wallace makes a welcome oasis of calm to dive into from manic Oxford Street – though not everyone finds the conservatory-style furniture comfortable.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009