Restaurants

The new plaza in the Paddington Central development, where Pearl Liang is located, was deserted on our evening visit, but the restaurant was welcoming. A sumptuous black marble bar, floor-to-ceiling bamboo poles, a dark wooden screen and a giant wooden abacus, as well as the all-important fountain and fish pond (a portent of money), greet diners on arrival. Banquettes and chairs are fuchsia-pink, and frosted glass panels are decorated with golden motifs from Shang dynasty bronzes. Staff were friendly and solicitous, and the dim sum is rightly famed. We ordered courgette prawn dumplings as a starter and werent disappointed; the wrappers were silk-thin, the stuffings a delightful melange of titbits with pleasing tastes and textures. Duck slices chiu chow-style was an unusual treat: five-spiced duck with beancurd in a rich gravy (off-menu, we asked for the traditional accompaniment of garlic-in-vinegar, which wasnt provided). The quality of the food suggested wed be safe with a five-willow, sweet and sour dover sole; it was skilfully cooked, but the sauce looked as if it had been coloured artificially. Gai lan (chinese broccoli) with ginger was superbly wokked, and the unusual fried rice with dried scallop and egg white splendidly light and fragrant. Theres some top-class talent in the kitchen here well be back soon for a lunchtime dumpling extravaganza.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008