Restaurants

Conjure up a stern auntie lovingly preparing all your favourites in her kitchen in downtown Tbilisi: that’s Little Georgia. There’s no licence, which means no fabulous Georgian wines, though you can bring in your own alcohol – and for no extra charge, which is a friendly touch. Mossy green paintwork, an ancient gramophone, a wacky 1970s map of Georgia and nostalgic photos, along with soulful/jazzy Georgian sounds, create a homely, laid-back atmosphere. Our friendly waitress was slightly haphazard, stretched to the limit by a party in the basement and a full ground-floor room, but with such a pleasant vibe we didn’t mind waiting. The cooking has certainly risen a notch since our last visit and is spicier than at London’s other Georgian restaurants. Although khachapuri is hard to resist, try lobiani: scrumptious flatbread stuffed with spicy beans and (optional) smoked pork. Garlicky carrot salad was a good foil to the rich beetroot pkhali. Add barszcz, blini and other delights as meze, or share a hearty main. Chanakhi (lamb, aubergine and potato stew) with pungent ajika spicing (ground red peppers, coriander, and garlic) was rich and comforting, though slightly low on meat. Our evening resulted in an implausibly small bill.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009