Restaurants

A vision in white (and everything is white floor, tables, chairs, lighting, except for one wallpapered wall) that gleams even when the lights are dimmed at dinner, this is one sleek restaurant. The food a happy marriage of Sardinian recipes, fish and seafood also looks a treat; it may be rustic in origin, but its served in a very suave fashion, and the ingredients are good quality. Spaghetti alla bottarga (with thinly sliced grey mullet roe) looked simple, but was deceptively rich. Chargrilled monkfish with marinated courgettes was a large, meaty portion in delicious juices. Starters are even less complicated, but equally appetising: grilled squid with marinated tomatoes, pickled white anchovies on rocket and courgette salad, sparklingly fresh rock oysters. The little touches are well done too witness the variety of breads and olives served gratis. Puddings include sebada (Sardinian cheese fritters with honey); the wine list is short and Italian. The staff are a charming, welcoming bunch, though if youre not a Sloane or a Euro-banker, you may feel the odd one out. Owner Mauro Sanna also runs nearby Italian restaurants Olivo and Olivetio.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008